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Kody, here's the fuel filter I got: 7-02357-1 It's a very small in-line fuel filter meant for 1/4" ID fuel line. It will work on 3/16" ID fuel line, it's just a tighter fit. I got mine at NAPA but Google says it's also available at Autozone. If you're up for it, check out clear fuel line too, 3/16" was about 75 cents a foot. Kinda cool to see the color of gas and see if it's varnished or not. However, I don't know if the clear fuel line is rated for Ethanol or not. IMO it's cheap enough that if it breaks down or cracks in the next couple of years, cheap enough to buy new line and filters.

*EDIT*
Here's a pic I took with my phone:


The big flat side should go to your carb. That way you can see the particles and stuff the filter has caught.

*EDIT 2*
There's also a part number, something like 3011. It's a Volkswagen fuel filter, it's about twice the size and uses a paper filter. I was told it gives more flow but that's not needed on smaller motorcycle engines. I believe they're about the same price, I just went with the smaller one so it didn't touch the engine and was easier to route.

I also didn't bother with hose clips or worm clamps. Small nylon zip-ties do the trick as long as you pull them tight with a pair of pliers, you'll get it 2-3 notches tighter than hand-pulling that way.

From what I've read on my bike, it's not uncommon for people to saturate air filters with oil. It helps stop fine particles of dust. It could be that or it could be like my lawnmower in that the excess crankcase pressures are vented via PCV valve back into the carb. Too much oil and it can overflow back into the carb and get on the air filter. I think the latter is for smaller and less precise engines though.

I'll try and remember later when I go down to the barn to look at the packaging for the in-line fuel filters I got at NAPA. They were really $3 or so and they're worth every penny. Clear fuel line is cool too. Along with a new spark plug (make sure it's gapped right) make sure you have fresh gas and not gas that you picked up 2 months ago or earlier this year. Fresh this-week gas.

I finally got around to ordering new capacitors for the crossover. I picked up some Mills resistors too. Took me 2 days to rewire the crossovers since I chose to braid new internal speaker wire and solder everything. I honestly can't say I hear a difference, good or bad. The only comfort I have is in the fact that I have $110 max in these speakers and now they're in "refurbished" condition so if I ever wanted, they should fetch $350 or so to the right buyer.

Even with what I said, he probably won't notice the improvement to the 1090T but he won't have to upgrade for a while (and now his new motherboard supports it). It makes more sense for him to upgrade CPU's when he doesn't need them because he doesn't overclock and can't squeeze more performance that way. I'm really on the fence about it but, it's skrewy's money and if skrewy's happy... that's all that matters really.

Lotta work like what?

Such a copycat In case you haven't been reading my twitter, I got a 1970 CT90 on the 19th of this month. I've been working on it since. Looks like a nice bike though. Anything wrong with it? I hope you got a title or at least a legal bill of sale?

First 2 components would not be an upgrade, just a waste of money. You would literally notice no difference (just had a thought, hopefully mans checked your motherboard's phase power so it will support the 1090t, 4+1 will "work" but has a probability of frying in the long run). For the 3rd link, that's probably a side-grade or down-grade. I'm not sure, I don't really keep up with the new cards until I have money to spend on them.

You did do something positive in your post. I've been noticing huge FPS drops in BC2. Just randomly started. I figure it's either Nvidia drivers or one of the recent Steam updates. Or... the fact that I'm using a 2+ year old graphics card on modern games...