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Community => The Lounge => Miscellaneous => Topic started by: Knight on Tuesday, August 30, 2011, 21:48:06 PM
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Sooo I did some thing impulsive today....I bought a 1981 Yamaha XT250 for $40.00 WITH FREE DELIVERY! It needs a fair amount of work but for the price its worth it.
Update 9/2: Cleaned the bike up a bit and removed seat. Looks like I need at least a battery, air filter, spark plug and maybe a fuel filter/evaporator? There is oil leaking from some where and there is oil in the airfilter/filter box.
To-do: Get battery and spark plug and see if it will start before I go any further in the disassembly.
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Such a copycat :) In case you haven't been reading my twitter, I got a 1970 CT90 on the 19th of this month. I've been working on it since. Looks like a nice bike though. Anything wrong with it? I hope you got a title or at least a legal bill of sale?
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Cool. Better than riding a bike :D
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No it doesn't run, needs a lot of work. I need to get the bill of sale from them on monday.
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Lotta work like what?
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At the VERY least, the tank needs to be cleaned and it needs a spark plug. I'm sure it needs more than that.
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If you're going to clean the tank, head down to NAPA and pick up a in-line fuel filter or two. I think mine were $3.70. Cheap insurance.
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I don't know how far Skrewy is suggesting to strip it down but I've looked at YouTube videos of mine where someone rebuilds the whole engine/tranny/clutch case and there's way too many parts to make me comfortable with disassembly, even with the YouTube video guides.
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That's the point. I have spare time. I would rather spend it rebuilding a bike then playing computer games all day. I mean I love playing computer games but this is a way for me to learn new skills out side of the computer/it world.
OP updated with to-do.
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From what I've read on my bike, it's not uncommon for people to saturate air filters with oil. It helps stop fine particles of dust. It could be that or it could be like my lawnmower in that the excess crankcase pressures are vented via PCV valve back into the carb. Too much oil and it can overflow back into the carb and get on the air filter. I think the latter is for smaller and less precise engines though.
I'll try and remember later when I go down to the barn to look at the packaging for the in-line fuel filters I got at NAPA. They were really $3 or so and they're worth every penny. Clear fuel line is cool too. Along with a new spark plug (make sure it's gapped right) make sure you have fresh gas and not gas that you picked up 2 months ago or earlier this year. Fresh this-week gas.
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Kody, here's the fuel filter I got: 7-02357-1 It's a very small in-line fuel filter meant for 1/4" ID fuel line. It will work on 3/16" ID fuel line, it's just a tighter fit. I got mine at NAPA but Google says it's also available at Autozone. If you're up for it, check out clear fuel line too, 3/16" was about 75 cents a foot. Kinda cool to see the color of gas and see if it's varnished or not. However, I don't know if the clear fuel line is rated for Ethanol or not. IMO it's cheap enough that if it breaks down or cracks in the next couple of years, cheap enough to buy new line and filters.
*EDIT*
Here's a pic I took with my phone:
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The big flat side should go to your carb. That way you can see the particles and stuff the filter has caught.
*EDIT 2*
There's also a part number, something like 3011. It's a Volkswagen fuel filter, it's about twice the size and uses a paper filter. I was told it gives more flow but that's not needed on smaller motorcycle engines. I believe they're about the same price, I just went with the smaller one so it didn't touch the engine and was easier to route.
I also didn't bother with hose clips or worm clamps. Small nylon zip-ties do the trick as long as you pull them tight with a pair of pliers, you'll get it 2-3 notches tighter than hand-pulling that way.
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There's 2 holes in the frame for the 2 hoses. The "pinchy" type hose clamps that come with the bike were rusted. They were also very low profile so they would fit through the holes in the frame which aren't much bigger than the hose itself. A typical stainless steel worm-type hose clamp would be too large to fit in the hole on the hose. I had to choose something smaller and zip-ties worked perfectly.
Also Kody, for my bike there's an incredibly helpful Yahoo Group with people that often know more than the manufacturer or a certified repair shop. I looked around and there was a specific XT250 Yahoo Group but it was merged with another one recently. Check it out:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/xt225serow/
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Mans approached me and mentioned the zip ties as well. I did some Google searches and came up with a mixed bag of results. But, from what I gather, it's only bad on fuel-injected engines or fuel lines that have pressure. On bikes like these, the fuel lines are pretty much gravity fed and the carb itself pumps the fuel (which isn't a lot) so I don't really see a problem. It might be an issue several years from now or if the bike sits outside in the sun for a while. Either way, the least of my or Kody's problems now is the fuel line. Gotta work on getting the engine running properly, then we can worry about having things "properly" assembled.
Still though, I don't know of any clamp that would work on the small diameter holes in the frame on my bike.
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Australian tested and proven design
That concerns me.
Anyway, I was just offering advice to what I had done. I have tons of zip-ties on hand and the less money I put into the bike before it's running decently, the better. My tank had a little rust and really old gas in it so I wanted filters and the fuel lines are 41 years old so I wanted to replace those as well. Like I said, if the zip-ties crap out in 2-3 years, I will hopefully have the bike running by then and will be willing to put another $8 into fuel lines and filters (which will probably need changing anyway).
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if u had to zip tie I'd go with a stainless tie (wont rust and will last longer then plastic)
True. I have steel zip ties on my radiator for my car after i broke the bitch clips. Work just great with high temps and cooling.
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For cars, the worm style screw hose clamps are great.
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You can see though, the screw portion of it takes up a lot of space. I would have preferred to use those but there's just no possible way I could have fit them.
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Thats what i have on all of my hoses but for the radiator that attaches to the frame of the car so it wont shift or slide out of place. They make sure small hose clamps...how small did you need?
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The hole going through the frame on my bike couldn't have been larger than half an inch. The inner diameter of the tubing was 3/16".